Hello all, I am new to the forum, I am looking for some advice on where I can best learn and understand scopes and zeroing, I just can't seem to grasp the subject?? I have a Weihrauch HW95K with a Hawke Eclipse 4-16 x 50 scope, it has gone out of zero and I just can't seem to get it zeroed again, any help would be appreciated, just remember if you could help keep it simple as i am just a thick Brummie 😉
Thanks in advance Martin
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Hi Martin,
online I saw that it's a SFP/"Second Focal Pane" scope, calibrated at 10x magnification with 1/4 MOA click-value.
Second Focal Plane >> means the reticle stays the same size, independent of magnification, because it's behind the lenses, near your eye.
Calibrated at 10x >> means the turrets' click-values are corresponding with the dots/lines of your reticle at that specific magnification. That's how all SFP scopes work.
1/4 MOA >> turret click-value means four clicks are necessary to change the angle by one MOA.
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MOA and MILRAD are angle values! The bigger the distance to the target, the wider the spread. At 100 yards 1 MOA equals 1 inch, so at 25 yards 1 MOA equals only 1/4 inch...
Assuming you zero-in at 25 yards, then one turret click (of 1/4 MOA) on your scope will move the reticle by 1/16 inch (16 clicks are necessary to move the point of impact by 1 inch).
Important:
1) When dialing e.g. "UP", you move the point of impact UP, meaning you really move the reticle down.
2) Always use the center of good groups to zero-in, never just the best shot.
3) On SFP scopes, the dots/lines in the reticles and the turrets' click-values are only corresponding at a certain calibrated magnification. In your case, do everything at 10x magnification.
Enough confusion now! So there are three ways of adjusting...
A) The "sportive" way ;-|
Using any magnification you like, shoot at the center at 25 yards. Go to the target and measure the horizontal and vertical offsets in inches. Re-adjust your scope calculating 1/16 inch per click.
B) The "lawn chair" way ;-)
Set your magnification at exactly 10x (your factory calibration setting) and shoot at the target at any distance. Then aim again at the center and count the offsets INSIDE your scope. At this magnification 4 clicks (1 MOA) equal the distance between each Dot/Line in your reticle.
C) The "blindfolded headache" way :-(
Shoot and try, run forth and back, try adjusting the scope without moving the rifle, try mounting a second Red Dot... Been there, done that ;-) But if your impact is currently somewhere at the scope's edge, you will have to dial A LOT backward and again forward until you come close.
Example using method B, counting MOAs on the reticle at a predefined magnification:
1. Set the magnification to 10x. Now the distance between dots (their centers) is 1 MOA / 4 clicks.
2. Shoot at the center and count the offset inside your scope. If the point of impact is e.g. 3 dots RIGHT and 1,5 DOWN, then...
3. Turn the turrets 12 clicks LEFT and 6 clicks UP.
Done, hopefully! Now you can fine-adjust by single clicks.
Puhh, it's more difficult to explain, than to do! Hope it helps and I didn't mix things up :-)
Greetings and best wishes,
Chris
Tip: In FFP / "First Focal Plane" scopes the reticle is also magnified. So, 1 MOA on the reticle will always equal 1 MOA on the turrets. Even better, use a scope with MRAD (MIL/MilliRadiants), because it's much easier to divide things by 1000. Disadvantages are, the reticle is small at lowest magnification, and might be a bit blurry at highest magnification. But take care: Some manufacturers use MILs (MRADs) on their turrets, but strangely mix it with MOA indicators in the reticle! For such combinations you really need a calculator ;-)
Thanks Andy much appreciated, that has helped, one thing have you done a guide on the scopes themselves, as in how much a click on windage etc moves the point of aim? sorry to be a pain.
Hi Martin, this tutorial may help you, kind regards, Andy https://youtu.be/BZ_eGTXArPw